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Brick wall ceiling, no point playing.

#23
I'm really new, and at that SUPER bad, but if it means anything at all, I just want to say that (from my perspective) you are AMAZING right now. I can't fathom being as good as you... I hope to get to where you are someday, and when I do, I can't imagine being discouraged (although I'm sure it will happen, it's just, I want you to think about how far you've come). Even I'm having feelings of doubt of if I'll get any better where I stand (and i just started playing two months ago), so I can't fathom seeing as much improvement as you have, and not realizing how far you've come and how much you've learned...

Essentially, don't get discouraged, you're nuts, and far above average... Like others have said, the higher you go the slower you progress... And while it's no longer necessarily linear progress, it happens to everyone that way (or at least a very large majority)... So in a way it is linear progress since the decline in improvement is common, and something you just gotta work through. And the number one step to working through that is realizing how far you've come and how everyone has feelings of stunted growth along the way.
#24
If I was the OP I'd focus on studying some material that are meant for higher rated players :
a.chessmastershcool.com 1-year courses(and no I'm not affiliated)
b.books by = Dvoretsky,Rowson,Stohl, Volokitin , just pick a book and stick with it!
c. I've heard many higher rated players say : you need to improve your slow games before your rating in fast games can follow. So maybe put the bullet and blitz on halt for a year or two, focus on rapid and classical and slow OTB games?!
#25
@rickrenegade

"For me, paying very close attention to all pawn moves and non-moves brought me from 1850 to 2000."

Could you possibly elaborate?
#26
@Onyx_Chess

Oh sorry, I meant to address you. Please explain how paying attention to pawns improved your play.
#27
@nayf

I mean that I can show you many games where the pawn structure mandates that a pawn be moved/pushed/captured/not moved, or a piece be moved/captured/not moved...based specifically on the mechanics of pawn fundamentals.

Often these moves are #1 suggested by the computer, and they are ALWAYS moves that I never would have made pre-1800.

In other words, if I were to give you a tactical puzzle of these positions, you wouldn't know how to improve unless you factored in insidious, long-term, and static pawn strengths/weaknesses.

A perfect example would be the video that I posted.
#28
@rickrenegade Something interesting: I actually have one classical game against you from 7 months ago that pushed you from 1999 to 2000, so you're welcome lol. I've gotten a bit better since then, and I'd like a rematch some time if you're willing!
#29
@whdahl that is interesting you got me over the line to complete the 2k in all categories. I will rematch you when I start the campaign to do it again. Although you are much better now. I just wanted the 1 point then.

Peace
#30
@nayf making it more simple of what Onyx_Chess is saying:

>>> pawns are usually the weakneses, which you are going to spend your time to defend, so have to move them wisely to not produce weaknesses
>>> unwise pawn move can produce square/positional weaknesses
>>> pawns grab space of the board and guard squares
>>> good timing of pawns push can give you good counterplay, grab some space, open position (let's say you have two bishop advantage)
>>> MOST IMPORTANT: once you push your pawn, you can't go back and forth, so that one push has to be very well calculated
>>> usual pawn's value is 1.00, but the closer you get it to the 8th file more value you achieve and more complications you cause to the opponent
>>> pawns help to build fortresses and Magnus does believe in them now :)

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